Ah.....that's why the clock didn't work !

[Kerry B]

So, today I had the time to pull the dash out of Odin, I was planning on swapping the black front of the 7 dial dash for a brown one and looking to see why the clock didn't work, all went well, wires, oil pressure pipe and speedo disconnected, all fiddly with the steering wheel still on ! Finally dash pad is free and removed, laid it on the ground and I now know why the clock doesn't work and I'm very surprised that Odin hadn't burst into flames at the time that the damage was caused !
As an added note, there is a switch under the dash above the storage tray on the right side that at some point had been attached to the dash lights, although I can't think why you would want to switch them off.

[1972nail]

That does look a bit synged.....what caused it?

[Kerry B]

Not sure what caused it, there has been work done on the wiring behind the dash, there are a load of earth wires that have been worked on that attach at the centre point, must have happened awhile ago as it doesn't smell of melted plastic. Just another job that needs doing, I will be using heat shrink and not insulating tape though !
The switch under the dash looks like it originally came from a Firenza dash.

[droopsnoot]

As an added note, there is a switch under the dash above the storage tray on the right side that at some point had been attached to the dash lights, although I can't think why you would want to switch them off.

That's standard on everything except HPF, which had a different headlamp switch that can be turned to dim or turn off the dash lighting. Should be a slide switch. From the Magnum handbook: "The instrument lights are controlled by a slide-type switch located at the drivers end of the bottom edge of the instrument panel, below the face level vent, and the circuit is arranged so that the sidelight switch must be in the 'ON' position before the instruments can be illuminated."

That's a nasty-looking melted circuit you've got there, though the clock doesn't run through it of course, it has separate wires running to the two contacts on the back of it. My Firenza had something heavy wired to the dash lighting circuit before I bought it that caused the wire to burn out - caused some damage to the loom behind the dash, and it would be worth checking yours for signs of damage while the dash is out of the way. I guess back then people didn't want to bother adding stuff like radios in with a proper wire back to the fuse box.

and not insulating tape though !

Quite right, no place for insulating tape on a wiring loom. Not so bad under the dash (though still "wrong"), but in the engine bay the heat starts to melt the glue. Should use proper loom tape, though I always have to pop a blob of glue to stop the ends coming undone, I've never managed to get it to hold itself in place like it should.

[1972nail]

While you're at it you should consider bypassing the resistance wire.

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=22328

You'll need a proper 12v coil to complete the job.

[Kerry B]

That might have been the cause, electronic ignition has already been fitted at some point !
I will check the wiring loom before I put it all back together, under the centre console was also all over the place, lots of lovely choc blocks and loose wires, stereo was running off the light feed !

[Fred Dukes]

When you have sorted it all dont be surprised if the clock still does not work - 80% of original clocks have failed

[ken707]

Most of those non working clocks can be repaired by a jeweller, if you can find one!

[Kerry B]

Thankfully I have a spare one that works and the remains of another one, I will look to see why the original one isn't working, it might be smoke inhalation !