Sill relacement/repair

[AccieMad]

Car has just failed MoT on sills. 4 door HB. Holed in several places.

I've been quoted £1200 for a proper repair (3 days work and probably more next year...) or circa 2.5K for inner and outer replacement.

Do these quotations seem within the normal range? I don't know how difficult the reapirs are on these cars. Obviously well outside the value of the car. So may look to get them patched if possible or do it myself but no welding experience (yet).

[hbpeter]

That seems well over the top to me. Can get sills quite cheaply. Shop around a few places and get some different quotes.

Peter

[droopsnoot]

It does sound a lot - I'd guess it's priced as either "we don't want to do the job, but we will if you pay this much", or "we'll have to make most of the repair sections, so it's dear" - I'd like to think the latter. Keep in mind a lot of sills you can get are cover sills, thinner than the original and make the assumption that some of the original is still there.

If they've worked on old cars before, they may also be factoring in that the edges of the inner sills might be gone where they meet the outers, and if doing the inners as well, they might have to re-make the edge of the floors and bottom of pillars to suit. Add in removing trim, carpets and so on and putting it back afterwards.

None of it's particularly difficult, but time adds up. At that price (3 days for £1200) it sounds like they're charging £50/hour, you might be able to find someone with a lower hourly rate. A patched repair is perfectly acceptable as long as it's done properly, and can be done so neatly it's impossible to see it once you've had the retest - but leave the repairs visible until then. If they go over the whole outer sill with a grinder-mounted wire brush, that should point out anywhere the sill is thin (by converting it to a hole) so anything else is good enough to leave alone as long as it's rust-proofed.

[AccieMad]

Just picked up the car. There is a small patch the size of a playing card right at the front of the passenger wheel arch on the sill. On the rear offside rear arch/back door inner sill there is a bit of rust the size of my hand. The spare wheel well is also holed. Not sure if this is MoT-able.

I've booked it in locally with a welder for tomorrow. Cannot see it being more than a couple of hundred to patch, surely. Everything around seems solid, fingers crossed.

[droopsnoot]

It all just depends on how bad it is when they start stripping it back. I can't remember whether the spare wheel well will matter - I think any corrosion within a certain distance of the suspension mounts is the key thing, and that might be the problem if it's close.

[AccieMad]

I've had the sills patched. £180 all in and a decent job. Needed a bit more than first found (it's an extra £20 mate) but done now. Happy with the work and a nice guy.

Not been re-MoT'd yet, that's to come Monday so fingers crossed.

Wheel well is not testable as, as you mention, far enough away from suspension. Sec 2.4.A.3 of MoT according to my fail sheet (suspension component mounting prescribed area...).

Interestingly my bonnet mounts are quite well shot and I discussed having them welded up with the guy in due course. He mentioned they were not MoT testable on the HB but are on the HC. No idea if that is correct but he appeared to know his stuff.

[hbpeter]

You can get repair sections for the bonnet hinge areas. Would have thought they were an MOT failure if rotted enough. Could alow the bonnet to blow back at speed(yes I know Its a Viva!).

Peter

[AccieMad]

Hi Peter,

I guess a 'solid' glassfibre/screwed metal repair must be ok rather than seam welded metal. The bonnet opens and the hinge section doesn't move. It's on the welding list. If it was lace/fresh air you are right, it *must* be a fail.

I'll look out for a repair panel unless the club hold them? Offside is more 'urgent' than nearside.

Cheers

GT

[hbpeter]

CLub might have some, pop up on ebay quite often.

Peter

[AccieMad]

Cheers Peter