Grey or red primer?

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Grey or red primer?

Postby Paul Dawson » Fri Dec 20, 2013 10:07 am

After two years work (on and off) my Viva is now mechanically sound and all the structural welding has been done. It has just passed its MOT.

There is a lot of cosmetic work to do yet and that's going to take some time as a new job has made work busier.

I had a rear wheelarch repaired and it's currently finished in grey primer. Since it will be a while until I get to the stage of respraying it should I go over the grey primer with red oxide to keep moisture out? The car is stored in a garage which is dry, but unheated.

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Re: Grey or red primer?

Postby droopsnoot » Fri Dec 20, 2013 11:10 am

As far as I'm aware, none of the primers will stop real moisture. I'm using a marine red oxide on the bottom of the hatch which is supposed to keep out "damp", but it wouldn't be rain-proof. So if you're going to use it on the road over winter I'd think the thing to do would be to stick some kind of top coat on it. Maybe even just go over it with a rattle can of top coat (and perhaps a lacquer), then just budget for rubbing it all down again before the proper paint job.

ETA: If it's just going to stay in the garage, then some kind of epoxy primer might be enough. I'm reading many things about this as I (hopefully) get close to painting mine next year, epoxy gets good write-ups but there is a lot of conflicting information, but it's not (as far as I can tell) linked to the colour as it perhaps used to be.
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Re: Grey or red primer?

Postby fistfullofV5's » Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:20 pm

No primer will completely keep out moisture,as it's porous by nature. The longer you leave the car in primer the more moisture will penetrate and that moisture gets trapped hastening rust. Old primer that has been on for a few months also won't give nearly as much adhesion to the topcoat. Also don't wet sand primer for the obvious reason of getting even more moisture in. As long as the garage is dry all is not lost if you can't get any sort of topcoat on. It just means you're looking at re prepping for the final topcoat. I wouldn't be driving in a primered up car in a British winter,but I don't think that applies to you. If I had to paint anything when it's cold and damp,I'd want a heat gun on hand to warm the surface and flash off the coating as quickly as possible to minimise the trapped moisture.
Regards and congratulations on getting it mot'd, Dave.
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Re: Grey or red primer?

Postby Paul Dawson » Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:54 pm

Thanks chaps. It certainly isn't going to be driven during the winter. I will have a chat with our local paint supplier and see if he can make me a can of something approximating Henley Blue for the time being. If I run a couple of fan heaters all day I can get the chill off the garage which ought to make it possible to get some topcoat on for the time being.
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Re: Grey or red primer?

Postby 1972nail » Fri Dec 20, 2013 3:42 pm

If you can, use 'radiant' heaters, those ones that give a red glow or the new halogen ones. It's the surface temperature that requires raising for paint more than the ambient air temp. The radiant heaters will heat the surface quickly and the surface in turn heats the surrounding air.

As far as primers are concerned, I've always used 2 to 3 light coats of 'Bonda Primer' (red zinc oxide) thinned about 10 to 20% with cellulose thinners directly over cleaned bare metal and then a good coat of 2k grey 'filler' primer within 4 to 12 hours. I've also heard that 2k thinners can be used instead of cellulose in the Bonda Primer but I've not tried it and the manufacturer doesn't mention it in the literature.

Cleaned bare metal in my books is wiping down with panel wipe, then a rust killer like 'Jenolite' and then panel wipe again just before applying the primer.

If you leave the Bonda Primer much less than 4 or longer than 12 hours it can react with the grey and cause problems of 'pickling' or adhesion. Something about it being an epoxy base where solvent flash off occurs within 4 hours but the epoxy curing bit only gets going after about 12. If you can't get it covered in 12 to 24 hours it's better to leave it for a week or so then you can proceed with the upper coats without problems. :goodluck:
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Re: Grey or red primer?

Postby Paul Dawson » Thu Jan 02, 2014 2:44 pm

Just ordered a litre of Bonda - thanks for the advice. I've done a bit of reading up about it and it seems good stuff.
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