So after fiddling with the electrics last night, i found that the gauge was working and the wiring was fine.
The new universal fuel sender has to be drastically altered and so does the gauge for them both too work.
This isn't a how too, as i wouldn't want anyone to damage there parts using a guide from me, but this is just what i did.
With the fuel gauge unaltered and connecting the universal sender, the gauge will read full with the sender at full and when you move the arm of the sender down 1/4" nothing happens and then it starts to come down on the gauge, but bottoms out at 1/2 a tank, with the sender arm all the way down.
Now.. Two things too remember with these senders, they're very sensitive that the slightest movement, alters the gauge a lot and 1/4" of the fuel sender movement before stopping at full does nothing.
I'll come back too the sender, but this is what i found with the gauge and there's a drawing below showing what the gauge is like. With the gauge apart, you will find that there is 2 small coils. Right i was led too believe that the only earth you have, is the earth from the sender touching the tank and that isn't true. The internals have to earth through the housing of the gauge to the gauge mounting plate, that's mounted too the dash otherwise the gauge will not work.
so.. The two coils from what i found, alter the sensitivity of the magnetic pull of the needle left or right. So looking at my drawing below showing the inside of the gauge, the left coil pulls it too empty and right pulls it too full and on the sides of the coils, you will find there are two small bolt heads, that once they're slackened off you can move the coils up or down. Must add! > they have a very fine wire each coming from them, which will break easily without taking care. (jumping a head a bit here as i'm in work) but in my situation i set the coils both equally opposite each other, with the coils fairly high to take out some of the sensitivity in the gauge. IN my situation i could only ever get slightly above empty to Full, so what i did i bent the needle back a bit, so it would show empty and still line up with full.
now back too the sender. The arm on the sender had too be bent both sides of the pivoting point. The arm on the side to stop for empty had to be bent backwards (away from stop) 2mm so the sender could get a bit more travel to lower the gauge to empty and the arm on the arm on the side that stops for full, had to be bent forwards (towards stop) 5mm to take out the free movement, in which the sender didn't alter the gauge as it was already showing full.
The arm with the float will want warming with a blow lamp, to alter the length of it, close too original sender.
My fuel gauge works fine now and responds really well!
see pics below, but hopefully the above was readable as i just rushed too write it! but i best get back too work, as i can hear my dad shouting me!