vauxhallviva.com

amazing! looks great

Thanks mate it was a long old job, especially cutting/slicing the old hardboard away from the foam, but worth it in the end I think

update . . .


SNOW!!!




melted now though

Update...


so, I have been fiddling with the brakes, I have had an Idea, I have only built the prototype, but here it is . . .

First this little beauty . . .


as you can see i've already attached the push rod from the servo to it.

I took apart the servo and added two longer bolts with smooth shafts to it. I ground off the original bolts, rotated the housing a few degrees, drilled two holes and welded the bolts in. I also added two shorter bolts at 90 degrees to them to bolt the push rod sealing ring housing (which i have not made yet) to. I could have used smaller bolts for the sealing ring assembly but I've used the same diameter bolts because they have the same size head and these four bolt heads will provide a stable seat for the huge spring in the servo.




Yes it was an absolute *Bleep* getting the servo back together again

And finally, the whole pedal box/servo assembly together and working.
( well it would have been but I cant get the vid to upload, i tried a simple upload, I tried embedding it, I've tried to upload it as an attachment, but I cant...oh well, one for the mods to help me with I guess)

So there you go...it may not work, the master cylinders themselves may be too small to shift the amount of fluid needed, it may all be a waste of time... but it's all good fun

What's the diameter of the twin cylinders? The original single cylinder was probably only 17 or 19 mm so 2 much smaller one should shift enough fluid to work.

The diameter of the cylinders are 12mm (possibly 13mm) each, approx 0.510 inch, the original was possibly 0.750 or 0.625 inch so maybe it'll do the trick, if not I have a back-up plan (revert to standard )

Right , an update...

Master cylinder? couldn't get the cheap chinese unions to seal properly, stripped the thread out of 2 female pipe unions trying to get them to seal, then the whole system wouldn't bleed, I'd get a pedal, then it would creep. I clamped off all flexi's, still no real feel to the pedal, just sank to the floor. I decided a little more fettling was in order if I was to use that system, so it is languishing in the shed and I bought a brand new single circuit girling type master off ebay, I will fit it at the weekend

So amongst other things I have been tackling the bonnet, I drilled out all the spot welds and separated the skin from the frame. I then ground off all the rust from the inside of the skin and painted it black with some thick suspect looking stuff I found in the shed.


It got to dark to play anymore so next time I will de-rust the frame and weld new hinge mounts into it.

Its coming along nicely, your a brave man doing that job, ive got to sort a bonnet mount on mine at some point but taking the frame off aint happening

It's actually not that hard to do. All i did was sand the edges back lightly to expose the dimples where the spot welds were, drilled those out and gently prised the two pieces apart, the sealing gasket was stuck in places on the 'x' part of the frame, but came apart with gentle persuasion.

The amount of surface rust under that frame was astounding, obviously it traps a hell of a lot of moisture, and the vents in the GT bonnet cant help much, especially as the trims were missing, it just let the rain in and sit in the frame.

Getting it back together was pretty simple, but i ran out of gas, so I have riveted it together for now through the holes i drilled where the spot welds were whilst the new sealing gunk cures. I will drill out the rivets and weld it up properly at the weekend. Then we will see if my measurements were correct when i made the template for the bolt holes .... all good fun

School boy error on the bonnet The trailing edge I meticulously clamped together and welded through the spot weld holes... then, for added strength i decided to add a few more welds. So without thinking properly i clamped up the bulge area with the skin and welded that up. Fitted to the car and noticed i'd distorted it slightly and the bulge is to low. Thats when i realised that the inner frame is flat and does NOT meet the raised bulge area...grrrrr
So this mornings job is to remove the bonnet again and drill out my welds and hope that somehow it may pop back into shape, other wise i may have to remove the whole frame again and get out the panel hammers
Stupid me....

on a plus point, a nice new set of wheel cylinders showed up yesterday so at least i can get the old girls brakes working