Electronic ignition

[Bob perry]

I'm considering fitting an Accu-spark electronic ignition kit to my HA, ( Negative earth ), and just wanted to confer with you guys on the correct wiring set up, before I make a complete Horlicks of it!!

As I understand it, after installing the kit, the new black wire from the dizzy will connect to the existing white/black wire terminal on the - side of the coil.

The new red wire is then to be connected to the + side of the ballast resistor where the white wire connects.

My query is do I make a double spade connection on the ballast resistor so that the white wire and the new red wire can use the same terminal on the resistor, or can I use the second terminal on the resistor?

If not, what is the second terminal on the resistor for??

Sorry if this sounds obtuse, but I don't want to make a mess of this, and I'm sure one of you kind gents that have fitted one can advise if I have the theory right, and maybe any other tips on it.

Thanks.

[Johnboy HB]

Hi Bob, I imagine it's the same as my hb, the black/white wire from the dizzy to coil is now redundant, the black wire from the accuspark goes to the - on the coil the red wire goes to the + on the coil, the ballast resistor is also now redundant as the system works on 12 volts rather than 9, the white wire from the loom goes to the + on the coil there's also a black/white wire in the loom on mine that connected to the + on the coil which gave 12 volts to aid starting which you haven't mentioned, this is also now redundant, you should also check you have the correct coil for the accuspark, the original coil is I believe 9 volt, you will now need a 12 volt coil, it will run with the 9 volt coil but I believe you run the risk of burning it out, hope this helps

[Bob perry]

Thanks for the info Johnboy, but I wonder if the HA and HB set ups were different.

I agree with the black wire from dizzy to coil replacing the black/white wire on the - side.

My confusion is the + side.
Currently I have a white wire, which comes from the Ign switch to ballast resistor.
This resistor bolts to the coil + terminal on top of a white and blue wire which goes back to the remote starter button, under the battery, which is fed in turn from the battery + side.

Accu spark are telling me to connect red wire to 12v source, and in large bold letter DO NOT CONNECT TO COIL.

Schematic diagram from Accu spark shows the red wire to the same terminal on the ballast resistor as the incoming white wire.

I'm assuming therefore that I need to make a double blade connector on that terminal, but it doesn't say that.

I just need a confirmation from some one who has done an HA before I start, and as to why there are two terminals on the ballast resistor, or is that for when the resistor is remote and wired in series?

[dann01]

I'm no expert, but do not Acuspark also state to be fitted to negative earth systems only?

HA's, unless you have converted, I believe are Positive earth.

Dan

[Bob perry]

The later Ha's, after vin number 6151620L and 6522273E, of which mine is, were built negative earth.
Battery is certainly round that way, and there is a negative earth sticker on the bulkhead.

Fires up, runs and charges ok, so I presume everything is working right.
Just fancied the advantages of electronic Ignition.

[1972nail]

It might be better removing the ballast resistor and fitting a 12v non ballast coil.

[AccieMad]

Stepwise instructions here:- http://www.accuspark.co.uk/fitting_guide.html

I guess the relevant bit is :-

'b. Ballast ignitions: Connect to the 12 Volt side of the resistor or wire (DO NOT CONNECT TO COIL). See fig 1b
if the position of the resistor or wire is unknown connect to ignition key or the live side of the fuse box (not through a fuse). see fig 1b

NOTE : If unsure of your ignition type connect as b.'

I fitted it to my 1256 HB without any major issues. You'll need to rotate the distributer clockwise a few degrees to get it running smoothly but mine *started* without any problems (runs but won't rev cleanly). I wired directly to the coil as mine is *known* non ballast. I bought a strobe gun to get it spot on which was £30 but worth it to get the timing known correct.

Once you have it on you won't look back. It is excellent, starting much, much better and much better running.

GT

[niftynevins]

I have a retrofitted the accuspark setup to my HA. I would recommend fitting it with the red accuspark coil. I have this setup on my Cresta and Ventora too and all have been trouble free. I know of a lot of people who have had them burn out and I think this is due to them not measuring the resistance as stated.

[Bob perry]

I spoke to Accuspark, before I purchased it and they said that the current coil and ballast resistor would be fine, and no other changes would be required.

[niftynevins]

Absolutely, just follow the instructions as Acciemad has supplied. If your coil is within their spec then you have nothing to worry about.

I fitted the matching coil to ensure it was reliable. All of my cars had old coils on them and I figured that they tested it using that coil and for 20 quid extra I didn't think it was worth the risk.

I also needed to adjust the timing quite a bit.