vauxhallviva.com

daveyc123 wrote:Hi guys, looking to do this conversion on my 1256 hc
I'd like to replace the coil as well. So if I buy this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Viv ... SwHoFXvYor
Will the red coil be the one I need?

Yes, the red coil is correct if you bypass the resistance wire on an HC or remove the ballast resistor on an HB.

Don't go through eBay, go to Accuspark directly and you can order the red coil at the same time for £15 instead of £20.

I have the red coil on two of my cars already and will fit one to a third soon.

Hi
I got my kit from accuspark complete with the red coil fitted it yesterday and no go the wouldn't even fire did try adjusting the timing still no go so I have removed it put the points back started instantly I will phone accuspark on Monday and try to return it must be faulty has anyone else had problems with these.

Regards Chris.

You need to make sure you have a perfect connection between the metal shoe on the unit and earth. The base plate earth wire must be in place and the metal shoe must be completely clean where it sits on the base plate.

I fitted one of these kits to mine, leaves the points in place and you can use electronic or points. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sparkrite-SX ... SwOIpd-2nW

Have you read David’s guide for changing the system to 12v? It’s unlikely to work if you haven’t. Just a thought

Hi
Yes I did clean the base plate and fit the small earth wire onto the screw that secured the base must be a faulty unit thanks for your help.

Regards Chris,

Chris, did you make sure that BOTH the live terminal on the coil, known as the SW connection, AND the red wire from the electronic unit inside the distributor are both now connected to the live feed -that is the white wire on the HB loom? Also that nothing else is connected to the negative side of the coil, the CB terminal as it's sometimes known, except the black wire that comes from the new electronic gizmo.

I found after fitting one of these years back, I had to adjust the static timing a little bit. If you can't rig a test-lamp to determine when the electronic unit cuts the earth connection to the coil, when cylinder 1 is approaching TDC, then try after noting the approximate position of the distributor body, loosening the clamp and rotating the distributor body first one way just a few degrees and if it doesn't start then try turning the distributor body back past where it originally was, till a few degrees past that point in the other direction and trying there, just nip the clamp loosely between trys. If you've a helper, then get them to turn it over on the key while you try turning the distributor body again just a little bit, one way then the other. It might just get it near enough for it to start and run, that you can later obtain a more accurate setting using a strobe light.

I had also done a rough and ready how-to back in 2012, if it's any use, bit wordy, but might help.

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=17620&start=10

Also if you've a dynamo/control-unit, rather than alternator, the electronic ignition unit might not like the rather spiky system voltages that can result, as might not some strobe-lights, causing it/them to trigger inappropriately, but it would still run though maybe imperfectly.

Hi Thomas
Yes all done as you said and I did as you said with the dizzy I will see what they same Monday if there is anyone around. Thanks for your advice.

Regards Chris.

I have found them to be very helpful so fingers crossed they have some ideas