Electric and problem on 1256 GLS

[wyke]

Indicators / fuel tank indicator / temp unit and I think battery indicator all stopped working on 1978 1256 GLS .
Looked at wiring diagram and thought it was fuse 2 but fine when tested .
Any ideas / suggestions welcome . Engine runs fine.

[1972nail]

Sounds like a loose multi pin connector on the back of the dash or a corrosion problem in the fuse box connectors.

Try pushing the connector on the back of the dash securely in place first. If you wish take it out and clean it like described for the fuse box below.

It's a Saturday morning job to take the fuse box out and clean the connectors and box.

Best way is to disconnect the connectors on the top, remove the two securing screws. Lift the fuse box up and disconnect the bottom connectors.

I used to dip the fuse box in a weak citric acid solution and carefully use a cotton bud to apply citric acid to the connectors. Now I use Viakal bathroom cleaner and just spray it on the fuse box and sparingly on the connectors. A dry off by wiping and blowing the Viakal off the connectors and leaving the fuse box to dry for a few hours.

Spray lightly with WD40 and reconnect. Make sure all the wires in the connectors push securely onto the fuse box pins by using a pencil the give them an extra prod when fitted.

I find that all the connectors throughout the car can benefit from an occasional clean using Viakal. I recently found a weak sounding horn problem was down to corrosion in the multi pin connector to the combined horn/dip/indicator switch.

[wyke]

Many thanks ...with dry weather at weekend will try and do that with fuse box.
To get the connections at rear of seven dial dash .....does all the dashboard have to come out ?
Thanks again for your guidance and support

[droopsnoot]

No. For the main multi-pin plug you can reach up from the right side of the dash and get to it, and you can get to the rev counter plug as well up there. The others are accessed by removing the panel on the left of the steering column and reaching up. Disconnect the battery or take your watch off before reaching up there, especially if it has a metal strap. Ask me how I know.

[Bob perry]

You and me both Mike!
Working on a Peugeot 206 a few years back, customer reported a noise from the alternator.
I reached down to check the pulley, WRONG END OF ALTERNATOR!! and I shorted across the two terminals!!
She asked what was burning? My stifled reply....ME!!
Watch blew apart, skin scarred in a ring around the wrist, and still is!! Oh golly gosh I said!!!!!!!!

Never worn a metal watch strap since.

[droopsnoot]

I can only blame myself. I'd wired some spotlamps via a relay to the battery terminal - no fuse and, more to the point, no covers on any of the terminals. I reached up behind the dash to do something, massive spark, and I'm off up the road trying to get my watch off my wrist. I'm a bit obsessive with wiring stuff properly now.

[wyke]

Well ..it is now dark and the cold wind has beaten my efforts to solve this one.
I have had fuse box on bulkhead off and connectors all cleaned as suggested and reassembled.
Indicators now work but the fuel gauge , temp gauge and battery condition meter still all not working.
Can’t really see up behind panel on right so not sure about poking around up there !
Think I need to remove seven dial panel but can’t see any screws
Supplement at back of manual not easy to follow so not sure if full dashboard and surrounding has to come out? It says steering wheel has to come off so is this what it means ?
Again any help / suggestions about my next steps ...particularly diagrams would be most welcome .
Thanks again for support and guidance so far.

[droopsnoot]

Keep in mind that the battery gauge is a separate connection (well, two connections, pos and neg), it doesn't go through the main connector. So that might be a separate thing. Fuel and temp gauge go through the voltage regulator which is clipped into the back of the instrument panel, and can be removed either by removing the speaker blanking panel and reaching in, or removing the panel to the left of the steering column and reaching up.

As for removing the instrument panel itself, unfortunately the whole dash has to come out. It's held into the dash with four screws, but you can't get to them while the dash is in place. It's not a terrible job. Remove all the small nuts along the back of the bottom edge of the dash, remove the panel to the left of the steering column to get at some of them. Remove the steering column plastic shroud. Disconnect the speedo cable and all the electrical connectors, undo the oil pressure gauge pipe, and I think at that point it all comes forward. You also have to remove all the warning lights from the back of the centre panel before you can remove the whole thing.

I'm bound to have forgotten at least one step.

[1972nail]

I'm bound to have forgotten at least one step.

I think you've covered it Mike....

I would add that the dash is fitted into a small narrow retaining trim along the top edge on later cars. It can be very difficult to get the dash back into this when replacing, take your time and use an old credit card to help ease it back into place.

When I replace the instrument cluster I don't screw it back into the dash crash pad, I just slip it in and let it rest there, it won't move and it's easier to get out the next time.

[wyke]

I have been watching a seven dial dash on eBay but too expensive so if anyone out there has one available ....would be interested ......same with dashboard as mine is split in the middle.

Trying to get all bits together before I brave taking out the dash and dials etc ........so any suggestions and guidance most welcome.
Thanks again for your support and interest