Is this a magnum/Victor axel?

[daveyc123]

Hi guys, I have a 1256 viva and a magnum donor car, I was looking at swapping the axels. I'm inspecting them they both look the same to me? Could somebody explain the differences: this is the axel in the 1256 viva

[daveyc123]

And this is the one in the magnum. I'm new to this wonderful world of restoring old cars..... so go easy on me! So do I already have the stronger axel fitted? Thanks for your help

[droopsnoot]

I find it difficult to distinguish between different types of axle easily, but to me the diff casing in the lower photos look bigger than in the upper photos.

One easy way to tell would be to measure the length of the upper suspension arms, the ones that go diagonally from the top of the diff casing to the brackets on the inside of the chassis rails. On an OHV axle, the casing is smaller and so the arms are longer to compensate. I can't remember what the dimensions are, I'm sure it'll be on the forum somewhere, but it's one way to differentiate - the OHV upper arms are longer than the OHC ones.

[1972nail]

Yes,the upper one is a 1256/1600 OHC axle and the lower is a 1800/2000/2300 OHC axle. The handbrake mechanism is the easy give away. The 1256/1600 has a single cable across the axle going through a loop whereas the larger axle has a clever balancing mechanism with two cables of different lengths. As has been said, the upper arms are different lengths with the larger axle ones being shorter. Brake drums are also bigger and the diff cover has more bolts on the bigger axle.

The difficulty comes when identifying the ratio of the axles. There is a number/lettering system stamped somewhere near the pinion but I'd have to look it up to be sure.

[daveyc123]

Awesome!, cheers guys! My next question is.... how difficult is removing the axel? Is there a step by step guide on the forum?

[jpsmit]

Awesome!, cheers guys! My next question is.... how difficult is removing the axel? Is there a step by step guide on the forum?

Not hard at all - just start undoing things and when it falls on your head you are done.

Seriously though.

1. disconnect the rubber brake hose.

2. Undo the drive shaft - at the Universal - and it usually slides out of the transmission at the front.

3. Undo remaining bolts and you are good to go.

BTW the more bolt loosener you use the easier it will go - and the less likely bolts will break.

[Fred Dukes]

You may find that the diff ratio for the magnum axle will not help the performance of the 1256cc engine depending if the magnum is 1800 or 2300cc!

[droopsnoot]

I'd agree with JP - undo the prop, undo the brake line, disconnect the handbrake, and I'd remove the bolts on the axle end of the lower trailing arms, and the body end of the uppers, on both cars. That way you still have the upper arms connected to the axle that they are with.

You'll guess that, as with anything that's been in place for 40-odd years, "undo and remove the bolts" may well turn out to be a bit of work. The upper and lower arm bolts run through metal sleeves in the centre of the rubber bushes, and might not respond well to attempts to remove them. And equally might just be fine. If they are stuck, don't be tempted to put a big bar on the bolt head end of the bolts and turn it - it anything happens, it'll probably be that you rip the centre metal sleeve from the rubber. It'll turn, but it won't actually help because the sleeve is still there and won't allow the bolt out. At that point, either drill the end out of the bolt until it'll come out, or get a hacksaw blade in a handle up between the bush and the mount, if you can. That really is the option only if you haven't got a way to drill it. And you're better doing that without ripping the centre out, because sawing through while it can move is much more difficult.

[ken707]

Better drain the gearbox or put a big tray under it before removing the propshaft.