Brake Servo Question

[jpsmit]

well the brackets are installed (as mentioned elsewhere) - Tonight's job started with the braces for the brackets - no problem there.

Then I decided to mount the brake pedals and the Master Cylinder - only to be deterred by dried up masking tape that is at least 15+ years old. (part of the masking of when they painted it nigh on many years ago)

So while the tape is soaking, tonight's question.

It appears that there is a spacer for the MC - at least it seems like this is a logical place for it.

Can anyone confirm or deny?

(Also, miraculously I found the clevis pin that attaches the MC to the brake pedal neatly bagged and labelled)

[caribougone]

My Epic's original tandem master cylinder looks the same as yours (except rusty and seized) but without any servos, and no spacer. It was just mounted with bolts through the bulkhead. My pushrod must be a bit shorter than yours to account for the lack of spacer.

I like how your spacer has the bolts built into it - you'll be able to install it all yourself while I'll likely beg a reluctant family member to lie in the footwell holding a wrench on the bolt while I put the nuts on at the MC.

-Ben

[jpsmit]

Thanks Ben, I actually have a second MC (but rusty and nasty) - it had the spacer on it as well. The spacer has a quite distinctive nut which corresponds to the hole in the bracket of the spacer so, fairly certain it is correct. Now just need to get the nut off (it is stuck) and determine whether to rebuild this nasty one to get the lines on the correct side.

[jpsmit]

well I am trying to dismantle the MC to see if it is worth rebuilding. I have never rebuilt a Girling MC before

I have two questions.

1. as you look at the picture, how is the end of the reservoir held in place? With the screws out it spins but I don't know if it is a friction fit or ???

2. The circles area is (I believe) a one way valve from the reservoir, I have taken the circlip out and the spring out. The pin remaining seems to protrude below the level of the plunger as when I wiggle it, the plunger moves as well. Do I need to remove it, and if so how? I have tried to carefully put a nut in the 6 point hole but nothing moves.

anyone?

[caribougone]

1. After removing the two screws and swinging it around as you've done, Mr. Haynes says "Do not try and remove the reservoir as it is held in its other location by a captive circlip in the body, and can only be detached with the possibility of damage."

2. The 6-point hole is actually a plug holding the pin (tip valve) in place. Put the MC in a vice and use a big 1/2" allen key to unscrew the plug. Once it's out, push the plunger in a little bit and you'll be able to remove the tip valve, after that, the plunger will come out.

Here's a diagram from the Viva HB Haynes Manual...

[jpsmit]

this is very very helpful! thanks (and will go back to the manuals - doh!)

cheers

[thomas]

This looks like it too, from the Girling Illustrations catalogue.




That answers another query about what is or should be in the m/c service kit. In this case kit sp2482, and everything in the diagram above numbered 510 (6 items) should be in that kit.

[jpsmit]

Success!!!!

thanks all for your input and for the diagrams. Thanks too caribougone for mentioning the Allen Key - even though I don't actually have one that size, you reminded me that I have large Allen ended sockets for a 1/2 drive air wrench -

It took a 2 foot breaker bar to budge the plug. Then another fair amount of time getting the second part of the guts out. So, hurray! astonishingly dirty but the bore looks remarkably good, so progress.

[caribougone]

Great progress!

Here's a PDF of the instructions from an ancient Girling rebuild kit to add to our collection of tandem master documents.

- Ben

[jpsmit]

That answers another query about what is or should be in the m/c service kit. In this case kit sp2482, and everything in the diagram above numbered 510 (6 items) should be in that kit.

Thomas, thanks again for this post and especially for the diagram. I was just looking at the chart I had googled and it says the kit is SP2485 - you say SP2482 Could you clarify a bit - I want to make sure I get the correct one.

thanks so very much for this!

JP