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As some of you know I am in the process of fitting an Mazda MX5 Engine and Box into my Firenza. I've come up against a little snag.. The viva box was cable and the Mazda is Hydraulic. Now the clutch pedal pulls rather that pushes which means that it won't work with the mazda box.

Anybody got any ideas round this?? I am trying to use the standard pedal stepup as the the mazda one looks like and absolute *Bleep* to get to fit
Chris

Can you fit the Mazda master cylinder backwards, and connect to the pedal via the cable???

Got any photos of the parts, would help come up with an eccentric solution.

Peter

Could you either fit the master cylinder to the front bit of the pedal box (that is, where the brake lamp switch goes), or fit it in the engine bay but lower down, so you can do something like the pushrod from the pedal to the servo?

droopsnoot wrote:Could you either fit the master cylinder to the front bit of the pedal box (that is, where the brake lamp switch goes), or fit it in the engine bay but lower down, so you can do something like the pushrod from the pedal to the servo?

Clutch not Brake...
Peter... Ill get pictures, it might work.. just not sure ill have enough room, it all seem a little close to the steering column and I an not sure how I would fill it up yet..

Hi Chris,

I had the same problem with the hydraulic clutch on the Rover gearbox. I ended up making this



I attached a short rod to the pedal which goes through the bulkhead. It is connected to this contraption. As the pedal is depressed it pulls the rod which creates a pushing movement on the other side of the pivot through a rocker arm arrangement.



It took a while to figure out but it works really well.

I measured the amount of movement at the pedal and also the amount of travel that the master cylinder required to be fully depressed. (I think we all know that feeling).

I then mocked up the rocker in cardboard to get the measurements I needed.



The whole thing needs to be well attached to the bulkhead because of the forces involved.

As you can see I am not running the original servo (mine is in the boot) so I am not sure how you will get around that but the above method has worked for me.

If you need any parts machining up let me know

Hope this makes sense as it is difficult to explain.

That sir is a mighty fine idea... I could go remote servo I guess??
I thought of an kinked lever Ill draw a picture later.

I do need some machining possibly. ill be in touch...

If you are keeping the dual circuit brakes you will need 2 remote servos which is expensive. I only have a single circuit system because I laugh in the face of danger.

To be quite honest you probably don't need a servo anyway. Just push harder

Why would I need two remote servos? never had to look into it tbh...

A dual circuit master cylinder has 2 outputs. To servo assist you would need a servo on each.

As far as I am aware there is no after market dual circuit remote servo.

Anybody know of one?

Icedmunkie wrote:

droopsnoot wrote:Could you either fit the master cylinder to the front bit of the pedal box (that is, where the brake lamp switch goes), or fit it in the engine bay but lower down, so you can do something like the pushrod from the pedal to the servo?

Clutch not Brake...

I know, I meant like the brake pedal pushes forward into the brake master cylinder, you could mount the clutch master at the same level and modify the clutch pedal to push into it, if there's room. Or turn it around and mount it on top of the pedal box facing towards your legs, in a similar way to the brake lamp switch. Wouldn't work if it has an integral reservoir of course.

chrismc wrote:As far as I am aware there is no after market dual circuit remote servo.

Anybody know of one?

I don't but there was something similar on the last edition of "Car SOS" last Sunday, where they used two servos mounted on the inner wing of whatever it was (Zephyr?) so that the chap could have assistance on the brakes and clutch as he had tendon trouble.