Swapping wheel studs for bolts

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Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby demon.dave » Mon Apr 27, 2015 2:10 pm

Hi guys, future Viva owner here - going to collect a '79 HC 1300 on friday.

Just for future reference and upcoming plans, I have been looking into swapping the wheels as I can never keep a set for over a year. I know that the car has 4x4" PCD and that classic Mini and the like have the same PCD, but ideally I'd like something in 4x100 to widen the choice.

I have used wobble/corrective bolts several times in the past when running Merc and Brabus wheels on my Astra, but never wobble nuts. Is it possible to remove the studs from the car and use bolts instead?

Thanks in advance

Dave
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Re: Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby hbpeter » Mon Apr 27, 2015 5:49 pm

Hello and welcome. Whats the reg of the car you are getting? Photos? Not sure on your question, but dont think it would be possible. Someone clever will be along soon with a better answer.

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Re: Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby droopsnoot » Mon Apr 27, 2015 6:04 pm

Would it be too dangerous to have a second set of holes for alternative spacing put into the standard hubs, offset by 45° and set them at 100mm and move the studs to them when you want to use 100mm PCD wheels? I have a set of wheels for my daily which are drilled with two sets of mounting holes, to cover both popular PCDs for the vehicle, and presumably the extra holes in those don't cause sufficient weakness to be worth worrying about? I don't know, maybe an engineer could comment.

Is the change to bolts because it's easier to get the correct heads, or some other reason? Is there enough thickness on the hubs to be able to thread them sufficiently to use bolts instead of nuts? I can't picture my modern hubs to have an idea of how much thread there is.
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Re: Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby rizzo » Mon Apr 27, 2015 7:03 pm

Ive used these before with success,http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trike-wheel-adapters-Change-reliant-hubs-to-vauxhall-wheel-fitment-safely-/231529434067?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e83acbd3 just needs the stud hole enlarging from 3/8 to 7/16 but will give you 25mm each side spacing i believe, so off set of the 100mm rims would have to be correct.
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Re: Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby demon.dave » Mon Apr 27, 2015 7:58 pm

The main reason for wanting to use bolts is I don't really want to be butchering perfectly good hubs by drillimg secondary holes, and if i'm going to be using 'wobble' anything i'd rather it be a solid bolt with a floating collar than a sloppy nut on a 30 odd year old stud.

And using bolts is a reversible procedure whereas once the hubs are drilled, they're drilled.

What i'd like to know is it possible to replace the 7/16 or 3/8 stud with the equivalent bolt?
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Re: Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby rizzo » Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:35 pm

No not directly as the studs are bashed in and held by splines , by the time the holes were drilled and tapped you would be upto 12 or 13mm, what sizes wobble bolts are available?
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Re: Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby demon.dave » Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:13 pm

From looking anf past ownership - m10, 12, 14, and 18 in fine and standard pitch. Places will make them to suit though

Would it be possible to have the drums modified to bolts so it's a proper job? I don't to rely on my bodging skills
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Re: Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby rizzo » Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:57 pm

If you go down this route i think you first need to check how much area there is (threaded depth) and threading the hubs if possible has to be done *Bleep* on, personally i think the hub adapter are a much better idea.
The drums will just need the holes re drilling as they slide over the original studs.
these are the rover rims i fitted on hub adapters
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Re: Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby pbottomley » Tue Apr 28, 2015 6:52 pm

Don't forget its not just re drilling the hubs, one would have to re drill the rear drums to match. But there is no room on the rear hubs to rotate them 45 degrees and drill a new set of holes, as there is already a large hole for getting to the half shaft bolts. One can then only drill at say 22.5 degrees which might be too short a distance between the two holes (old and new) and promote stress cracks leading to drum and hub failure. See the image below you can see the bolt access holes win the hub at 45 degree's



If however you did decide to stick with 101.6mm PCD and change the studs from 7/16th to 12mm Metric versions then wobble nuts could be used, (you cannot get 7/16th wobble nuts to my knowledge).

Alternative solutions if you so set on "I want 100mm as I get bored of my wheels", may involve using front hubs that are already 100mm (chevette) that would Involve changing all the brakes and custom steering arms (not sure if anyone has engineered all of that yet).

The rear will even be harder as although the Chevette axle is 100MM PCD and has the right ratios for the gearbox, its a totally different mounting design. So to move the whole axle over will involve custom props hafts, custom handbrakes welding new monte to the axle and modifying your exhaust.


PS most 100mm wheels look terrible on a Viva, modern wheels on a old car smell of escort wannabe syndrome :wink:
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Re: Swapping wheel studs for bolts

Postby demon.dave » Tue Apr 28, 2015 7:10 pm

I think I have it sorted now

Somebody else has suggested swapping studs to M12 thread and using wobble nuta. That will give the option to stick or twist with my wheels.

Thanks for the opinion too that all 4x100 wheels look *Bleep* on a viva. Just because the Pcd is 4x100 doesn't mean i'm going to pick modern looking wheels. It just gives me a wider choice when I do change.

I can't say as i'm bothered about upsetting the 'purists' when it comes to anything car wise. I have my own style and I like things my way and that's the way it will remain.

I suppose it will upset a few folk when I get around to doing my TB'd redtop conversion too, but i'll be asking lots of questions and advice at that point

Thanks guys
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