I've just finished fitting electronic ignition to our 1256 HC. I can't claim all the credit. I couldn't have done it without plenty of advice from 1256man (Dave). I did it cheap, but it would have been easier to get a conversion kit if I could have afforded it.
Here is a set of instructions on how to do it if any wish to do the same for their car.
You will need to use an early fiesta/escort ohv dizzy and modify it to fit.
You will need a bench grinder, electronic ignition coil, dremel and attachments, angle grinder, tippex, set of verniers, bench vice, file, screwdrivers, spanners, and electrical connectors of some type (ideally a soldering iron and solder), insulation tape, connector plug off the old ford, a few washers (with a 12.5mm hole in the centre I used 10mm ones and drilled/filed them out).
Basically you take off the original drive cog after drifting out the roll pin. Then you shorten and reshape the end of the shaft to a flat blade. I used a bench grinder to do this. I made plenty of measurements of my old dizzy with a set of verniers before starting cutting. I also used an old carrier bag and the tape to cover up the rest of the dizzy to stop metal filings getting everywhere (remember this is a permanent magnet ignition system and will therefore attract iron filings to all the wrong places at the top of the dizzy).
It is PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT to make sure the flat blade is cut in the correct position in relation to the rotor arm in such a way as to allow the distributor to turn enough to adjust the timing. I marked the position of TDC on the inside and outside of the dizzy and the position of the rotor arm at TDC using tippex (it should point to the number 1 plug lead). On my particular model the dizzy had an offset drive so it will only fit one way around. I had to make sure the new flat was cut the correct way around. If you get it wrong and are 180 degrees out, just move all the plug leads around two spaces.
The new dizzy is a bit taller than the old one so the clamp has to be moved down the shaft a bit below the oil seal. This is where the dremel came into use. Using the dremel I ground a new groove for the oil seal a little way below the new position of the clamp. This took quite some time and careful use of a couple of different attachments. The trick is getting it smooth and the correct depth.
Then I fitted a few washers to the bottom of the dizzy and tapped the rollpin back in to hold the shaft in the correct position. Put the dizzy in the car and then noticed the clip for the cap fouled the casting of the engine. Back out came the dizzy and the angle grinder to grind the sticky outy bit off the cylinder head. Refitted the dizzy and then wired it in.
The wiring is important to get right. see picture with terminal info below.
Got the engine running and fine tuned the timing.
If you've done it right you should have something like the picture below (courtesey of 1256man again. Thanks Dave!).
Undertake this at your own risk. Do it carefully and take your time. You will need a whole afternoon to do this.
Good Luck
Tom