LJK 982L 1972 2 Door Saloon Restoration

[HC Fairley]

Another rust removal method we used before getting the blasting equipment.

We used an old bin as some of the parts we wanted to clean were quite large. Mix water and molasses together 9 parts water 1 part molasses. Can be bought in local farm shops as it is used as an additive in feeding. Drop the parts into the mix ensuring the water molasses mix completely covers all parts. Leave for a week, remove and clean by washing and wire brush, place back into mix for another few days, remove and wash it down with a power hose, dry it off and wire brush if you like then coat it in a rust prevention before painting. Something like Kurust just to stop it surface rusting before you can prime it.

Its slightly more time consuming but is miles cheaper and can sometimes be more beneficial in getting into nooks and crannies on parts that would prove difficult to blast

[gurrier]

Yes, Ethan,
I went through a period that I did much research on Molasses - your aforementioned Milk Stone and other chemicals -and even electrolyisis when I was looking at cleaning corrosion out of a fuel tank in the Viva and my other project. I eventually used a POR15 kit imported from America by a supplier down here (four month wait) which appears to have worked very well. The big task ahead of me will be removing a primer coat off of the Viva-and going back to bare metal. (Spring time job.) Thus my interest in the blasting. I am aware that there are companies that do blasting but given the danger that you highlight as regards thin metal I don't believe they would likely be as careful as necessary. Certainly down South at least I don't believe there are any companies that offer car body dipping. A layered approach of chemical-abrasive-blasting will probably be the way that I will go. I will be watching yours and other projects which have proved very helpful. Regards. Bill

[droopsnoot]

I used electrolysis quite a lot when I was doing the Sportshatch, with varying results. The subframe came out quite well, but took a while to do.

The bath was unusable afterwards, unfortunately.

[HC Fairley]

Before and after

[HC Fairley]

Ready to build

[jpsmit]

looks great! Ikea? (I'll get my coat)

[HC Fairley]

Thanks JP

Something like that!

If only we had a big shop like IKEA dedicated to Viva spares that we could wheel a trolley round and lift off the shelves.

[jpsmit]

Thanks JP

Something like that!

If only we had a big shop like IKEA dedicated to Viva spares that we could wheel a trolley round and lift off the shelves.

Indeed - that and a few other brands as well

[HC Fairley]

We continue on with the suspension revamp. Last night was spent pushing out all the old bushings to get the parts ready for the new Superpro polybushes. Some required more perseverance than others ! Needless to say I would definitely have been stuck without access to a press. Photos attached are of the rear arms that run from back axle to the body. I made the mistake of not blasting these when I was getting the front suspension components done

[HC Fairley]

Unfortunately I didn't have a lot of time to work on the car last night but I guess half an hour here and there is better than nothing at all!

Upper wishbone polybushes pressed in using the trusty vice and a large socket. Unfortunately it does mean I need to repaint over the scrapes and chips but it is what it is. More layers of paint can only mean more protection right?

These uppers were relatively handy to get the old ones out and new ones in but a word of warning regarding the lower wishbone bushes. They were a nightmare, we were using a 15ton press and they wouldn't let go. Ended up drilling through the old rubber until it fell out along with the centre sleeve and then had the tedious task of using the die grinder to try and wear through it until it split into a few separate pieces and could be knocked out with a hammer and chisel.